If you’re tackling wallpaper, start by identifying the paper and protecting the room—different papers and adhesives need different approaches. You’ll want to test a small area and choose between dry-stripping, scoring with water, a commercial remover, or a steamer. Follow the right steps and you’ll avoid damage; here’s how to proceed.
Assess Your Wallpaper Type and Wall Surface
How can you tell what you’re working with? Start by inspecting edges and seams: peel a corner with a putty knife—if it lifts in long sheets it’s likely unpainted vinyl or paper-back vinyl; if it crumbles or leaves paper behind it’s traditional wallpaper with paste backing.
Smooth, glossy surfaces often mean vinyl; fabric or grasscloth feels textured and rips unevenly.
Next, check the wall: run your hand for bumps, wallpaper residue, or bubbling that signals damaged drywall or plaster beneath.
Look for layers by scoring a small, inconspicuous patch—multiple layers need different removal methods.
Photograph problem areas and note material types before you start so you can choose the right solvents, tools, and techniques. If you’re unsure, take a sample to a paint store.
Prepare the Room and Protect Floors
Before you start stripping paper, clear the room and create a protective workspace: move furniture out or to the center and cover it, remove switch plates and outlet covers, and shut off breakers for added safety.
Lay drop cloths or contractor plastic over floors and tape seams with painter’s tape so water and paste won’t seep through.
Protect baseboards with low-tack tape and cardboard strips. If you have hardwood, add rosin paper or moving blankets to avoid scratches.
Keep a plastic bin for screws and plates, and label anything you remove.
Open windows for ventilation, set up a fan if needed, and place tools—scraper, spray bottle, sponge—within reach on a covered surface.
Work methodically to avoid tracked mess and minimize cleanup time later, too.
Test a Small Area Before Committing
When you’re ready to strip, pick a hidden corner or an area behind a switch plate and try your chosen method—dry scraping, scoring and steaming, or a remover solution—to see how the paper and wall react.
Begin with minimal effort: apply the least aggressive approach, wait the manufacturer-recommended dwell time for any chemical, then test removal.
Note whether the backing peels, the adhesive softens, or the paint underneath comes away.
Look for bubbling, staining, or gypsum damage.
If the substrate stays intact, proceed confidently; if it flakes or softens, stop and choose a gentler technique or consult product instructions.
Document what worked and how long it took so you can replicate the safest, most efficient approach across the room.
Include photos for reference later.
Dry Stripping: When and How to Peel Away
Wondering if dry stripping will work for your wall? If the paper lifts at seams or comes off in sheets after you’ve nicked an edge, it’s likely single‑ply, unsealed, and ready for dry removal. You’ll want to score stubborn spots lightly with a perforator or utility knife so steam or moisture won’t be necessary.
Start at a corner or seam, pry up an edge with a putty knife, and peel steadily at a low angle to reduce backing tearing. Work small sections, keeping the blade flat to protect plaster or drywall. If the paper tears into small pieces or a glue film remains, stop and switch methods.
Clean residual paste with warm water and a sponge before priming. Wear gloves and eye protection always.
Using a Store‑Bought Wallpaper Stripper
Choosing a store‑bought wallpaper stripper lets you dissolve paste and loosen stubborn paper without heavy scraping.
You’ll find liquid concentrates, ready‑to‑use sprays and gels; pick one labeled for your wallpaper type.
Prep by protecting floors and switches, remove outlet covers and test a small patch.
Apply per instructions, let the solution penetrate (usually 10–20 minutes), then work with a plastic scraper or your fingernail to lift loosened paper.
If paper’s still clinging, reapply—don’t force it or you’ll damage drywall.
Wear gloves and ventilate the room.
Once removed, wash residue with warm soapy water or a recommended neutralizer, rinse, and let the wall dry completely before priming.
Following instructions speeds the job and prevents damage.
Steam Stripping Technique for Stubborn Paper
Using a wallpaper steamer lets you soften stubborn paste and lift multiple layers without harsh chemicals.
You’ll work section by section: score the paper lightly with a perforator, hold the steamer plate against the wall for the recommended time, then peel with a wide putty knife.
Keep the steamer moving to avoid overheating the wall and avoid prolonged contact over drywall seams.
Wear heat-resistant gloves and eye protection; steam can scald.
If paste remains, reapply steam and scrape gently rather than forcing removal.
For textured or vinyl coated paper, test a small area first, since some finishes won’t release cleanly.
Clean residue with a scraper and a damp cloth once the wall cools, then let it dry completely before priming or painting and sealing.
DIY Water, Soap, and Sponge Methods
How quickly can you soften wallpaper paste with just warm water, a bit of mild soap, and a sponge?
You’ll find many papers loosen within five to fifteen minutes of repeated wetting.
Work in small sections, soak the paper thoroughly, and let the solution sit so adhesive rehydrates.
Use a soft sponge or microfiber towel to avoid damaging drywall; squeeze excess water so it’s damp, not dripping.
For vinyl-coated paper, focus on seams and edges where moisture penetrates.
Change water often to keep it effective.
After paste softens, peel gently from a corner while supporting the wall to prevent gouges.
Rinse residue with clean water, then blot dry.
If sections resist after repeated attempts, consider alternative removal methods.
Test a hidden spot before soaking.
Scoring Tools and Scrapers: Best Practices
When you need to break a vinyl or stubborn layer, score the paper lightly with a handheld wallpaper scorer so water can penetrate, but don’t gouge the drywall beneath.
Use a uniform, shallow pattern—vertical lines spaced a few inches apart—and test a small area first.
Choose a scraper with a thin, flexible blade for painted or fragile surfaces; pick a stiffer, wider blade for thick or loose paper.
Keep blades sharp and replace when nicked to avoid tearing.
Hold the scraper at a low angle and work from seams toward the center.
Reapply water as needed rather than forcing the blade.
Wear gloves and eye protection, and clear the room of loose debris as you progress.
Switch tools if a technique isn’t removing paper.
Repairing Adhesive Residue and Wall Damage
Removing leftover adhesive and fixing wall damage is an essential step before painting or rewallpapering, so get the surface clean, smooth, and dry. Start by softening adhesive with warm water and a sponge; for stubborn paste use a wallpaper adhesive remover or a diluted trisodium phosphate solution, applied sparingly.
Scrape gently with a plastic scraper to avoid gouges. For nicks and holes, press in lightweight spackling or joint compound, then smooth with a putty knife.
For larger gouges, apply a backing patch or multiple compound layers, letting each dry fully. Sand repaired areas flush with 120–180 grit, feathering edges into the surrounding wall.
Wipe away dust with a damp cloth and inspect for imperfections, repeating fill and sand as needed. Don’t rush the process.
Final Cleaning, Priming, and Paint Prep
With the wall smooth and dust-free, you’re ready for final cleaning, priming, and paint prep.
Wipe the surface with a lint-free cloth and a mild TSP substitute to remove any remaining grease; rinse with clean water and let dry completely.
Sand glossy spots lightly with fine-grit paper, then vacuum and tack-rag to remove particles.
Apply a high-quality primer suited to your wall material—stain-blocking for spots, bonding primer for repaired areas—to ensure even adhesion and color hold.
Use a roller for large sections and a brush for edges.
Check in good light for imperfections, touch them up, sand, and spot-prime.
Allow primer to dry per manufacturer instructions before applying your topcoat for a durable, uniform finish.
Ventilate the room and remove dust thoroughly before painting.
Conclusion
When you’re ready, start by identifying the paper and testing a hidden spot so you won’t damage walls. Protect floors and shut power off, then dry strip if the paper peels in sheets. If not, score lightly and soften adhesive with warm water, a remover, or a steamer before scraping. Clean off paste, repair nicks with spackle and sand, then prime the surface so your paint goes on smooth and looks great now.